How Do You Presrve Fur Once The Pelt Is Off The Animal
Guide 50-101
Revised past Samuel T. Smallidge
College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences, New Mexico Country University
Author: Range Comeback Job Force Coordinator and Banana Professor/Extension Wild fauna Specialist, Department of Animate being Sciences and Natural Resource, New Mexico State University. (Print Friendly PDF)
Introduction
Correctly preparing pelts is essential to secure a top market cost or to allow for successful tanning. If pelts are to be sold, information technology is simply good business organization to prepare them properly. Compatible preparation is an important consideration because pelts are graded by size, quality, and appearance. For those wishing to tan pelts for personal use, pelts must be prepared properly to facilitate a high-quality finished product, whether tanned at home or sent to a commercial tannery. This publication presents procedures and techniques for skinning animals and preparing the pelts for sale or tanning. If you intend to sell your pelts, information technology is best to check periodically with an established fur heir-apparent for preferred methods of skinning and handling since these may change. Similarly, you lot should check with the tannery yous plan to send pelts to if having them tanned commercially.
Almost furbearing animals alternate between winter and summer coats. Winter coats provide the fauna with added protection from the elements and are thicker and fuller than summertime coats. Therefore, the most valuable furs are taken during the colder months. The wintertime coats of younger animals get prime (fully adult guard hair and underfur) earlier in the fall than those of older animals. The time frame of when a pelt is most marketable varies with species of animal, climate, region, and market conditions. Nevertheless, most furs are thick and marketable past early Dec even though they may not be fully prime.
Fox and coyote pelts begin to drop in quality and appearance during the breeding flavor, which is usually from late January through February in New Mexico. Bobcat pelts are often prime number as belatedly as April, but condition of fur varies considerably by individual.
Earlier harvesting any furbearing animate being, it is your legal responsibility to know and empathize all state rules and regulations regarding harvest, possession, and trade or auction of furbearing animals and their pelts. In New Mexico, a furbearer license is required for residents age 12 and older and all nonresidents to hunt, trap, or possess protected furbearers. Protected furbearers (raccoon, badger, weasel, trick, ringtail, bobcat, beaver, muskrat, and nutria) can exist harvested merely during furbearer season. It is illegal to accept black-footed ferret, coatimundi, pine marten, and river otter in New Mexico. Nonresidents too must have a license to harvest unprotected furbearers (skunk and coyote). When using traps to harvest furbearing animals, a Trapper ID number is required. This ID number is provided free past the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish (NMDGF) and tin be obtained by calling 505-476-8038. All bobcat pelts are subject field to special tagging requirements and must be presented to a licensed fur dealer or whatever NMDGF office within 30 days of harvest for tagging. Information technology is illegal to ship across land lines, castling, sell, or otherwise dispose of whatsoever bobcat pelt taken in New Mexico unless it is properly tagged. Furbearers other than bobcat are not subject to the special tagging requirements.
The NMDGF annually publishes rules, regulations, and season dates for hunting and trapping furbearers in the New Mexico Big-Game & Furbearer Rules & Information. This booklet is bachelor where New United mexican states hunting licenses are sold or online at www.wildlife.country.nm.usa. Always stay up to appointment with the most contempo booklet because seasons and regulations may change periodically. For further information, you can contact the NMDGF land function by phone at 505-476-8000.
Skinning
Many pelts are ruined by waiting too long between harvest and skinning of the animal. Warm weather can cause pelts to "taint" (early stages of disuse) and pilus to "slip" (loosen or autumn out) inside an 60 minutes afterward expiry, specially if they are exposed to direct sunlight. Therefore, animals should be skinned as soon as possible to prevent degradation or loss of pelts, peculiarly when temperatures are to a higher place freezing.
Furbearing animals are skinned either "open" or "cased." Example locations of the cuts for these two methods are shown in Effigy ane. In the open method, pelts are removed by cutting the skin up the belly from the vent to the chin, then peeling information technology away from the underlying tissue. Cased pelts are removed by cutting the skin upwards the back of the hind legs from the anxiety to the vent. The pelt is peeled back and removed much similar removing a pullover sweater. Feet, claws, and tail are removed on some pelts and left attached on others, depending on species. On some, the tail is split on the underside. Buyers, in general, agree on some techniques. Beavers are traditionally skinned open up and stretched into a round shape with the anxiety and tail removed, just the legs are not split. Badgers and raccoons may exist skinned open up or cased, but cheque with your buyer to encounter what he or she prefers. Muskrats are skinned cased and stretched pare side out. Coyotes, foxes, and bobcats should exist cased and dried fur side out.
Effigy one. Skinning cuts on open and cased pelts.
Fur color and quality are two reasons for the varied fashion pelts are sold. Furs such equally muskrat comport the aforementioned color throughout the pelt, and the colour can be observed on the rump of the pelt. Coyote, trick, and bobcat furs may vary widely in color throughout the pelt, and since color is important in pelt value, these pelts are sold fur side out. Some buyers prefer to have the claws left on larger bobcat pelts so they can be mounted as trophies or made into rugs.
Although a knife is needed for only a few cuts on most pelts, those cuts will be much easier if the knife is very sharp. When cutting through hibernate, cut from the skin side whenever possible, as cutting through hair volition quickly dull the pocketknife and make it hard to reach a make clean cut. Keep knives sharp, but exist careful not to accidentally impairment the hide when skinning.
Caution must be exercised while skinning and handling any furbearing animal since they tin behave diseases transmissible to humans. Plague, tularemia, and leptospirosis have been caused in the treatment and skinning of furbearing animals. Other diseases, such every bit rabies, can also be acquired through open up cuts or wounds. Some general precautions that should be taken to reduce risks of exposure and prevent infection are:
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Wear protective vesture, including plastic, rubber, or latex gloves, when skinning or fleshing.
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Scrub the work area, knives, other tools, and reusable gloves with soap or detergent followed past disinfection with diluted household bleach.
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Avert eating and drinking while handling or skinning animals, and wash hands thoroughly when finished.
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Safely dispose of carcasses and tissues as well as any contaminated dispensable items such every bit latex gloves.
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Contact a physician if y'all become sick following exposure to a wild animal or its ectoparasites (e.g., ticks and fleas). Inform the physician of your possible exposure to a wildlife-carried disease.
Skinning Beavers
To peel a beaver, brand a unmarried slit from the base of the tail directly through the vent to the tip of the lower jaw (Figure 1). Be conscientious not to cut into the torso crenel or damage the castor glands on either side of the vent. Cut the feet and tail from the carcass at the hair-line. Considering a beaver's peel is secured firmly to the body past musculus and gristle, you lot will demand to use a knife to costless it from the body as you lot pare it abroad. Begin skinning along the initial incision and work toward the back. When skinning the legs, merely work the pelt over the stump of each leg without cutting through the hibernate. With feel, yous may detect that leaving considerable amounts of flesh on the hide volition make it easier to practice a neat fleshing job later on on. Meat left on the hide can provide fabric to hold onto while fleshing a slippery beaver pelt.
Skinning Coyotes, Foxes, and Bobcats
Coyotes, foxes, and bobcats are not difficult to skin and are among the almost commonly sold pelts. Skinning is usually easiest if the animate being is hung by the tendons of the hind legs at shoulder superlative. A short rope with a harness snap fastened to each end and thrown over a beam is a elementary, effective method of hanging the brute. Instead of hanging the beast, some skinners prefer to anchor the rope to the bumper of a vehicle.
To skin a coyote, trick, or bobcat for commercial sale, cutting the skin from the rear pad of one hind foot up the dorsum of the leg to the base of the tail, and continue down the other leg to the rear pad of the other hind foot. There is a fairly singled-out modify in color between the fur on the inner and outer surface of the hind legs. The skinning cuts should follow this color-transition line equally closely every bit possible when cutting forth the back of the leg. Make a brusk cut across on the abdomen side of the vent to leave a small triangle of pare, including the vent, on the carcass. Cut around all four legs only higher up the feet (except when fur buyers desire anxiety and claws left fastened) and work the pelt away from the hind legs and tail. The tailbone can be pulled out by manus or by gripping the tailbone loosely with a pair of pliers, but a modest wooden boning tool (Figure 2) may be helpful. Effigy 3 demonstrates the use of a boning tool.
Effigy two. Wooden boning tool.
Figure 3. Skinning tail with boning tool.
A knife is usually needed only for beginning cuts and skinning around the caput considering pelts can be pulled off hands. Pull the pelt downwardly over the body, the shoulders, and the front legs to the ears. Cut the ear cartilage off adjacent to the skull, and carefully skin out the rest of the head. Be especially careful to avoid cutting holes most the eyes and lips. Leave the nose and lips fastened to the pelt.
Accept extreme care when skinning around an area where a bullet or shot entered or left the body. Bullet holes (or holes made accidentally while skinning) should be sewn shut before final stretching. Dental floss or fishing line can be used as thread. Be sure the hole is sewn then at that place are no bulges and and then colors on the fur side are properly matched. The fur of pelts should be brushed clean either earlier or after skinning. A equus caballus brush or household scrubbing castor works well for this. Washing may exist necessary to remove blood and other strange material. A loftier-pressure stream from a garden hose works well. The fur side of the pelts should be allowed to dry out earlier being stretched, as they may spoil if stretched while wet. This is especially truthful for cased pelts because the fur side receives footling ventilation in the first stages of stretching.
Fleshing
Pelts are ordinarily fleshed on a fleshing lath, fleshing beam, or stretcher, depending on species and personal preference. A fleshing lath is flat, while a fleshing beam is rounded. Both have tapered points and make fleshing easier by providing a solid base to secure the pelt to for scraping and cutting flesh away from the hide. Stretchers, although made for drying pelts, tin be used for fleshing some animals past property the hibernate taut while flesh is cutting away.
Fleshing boards, fleshing beams, and stretchers can be made at abode, simply beginners may find it easier to purchase one. A wide selection is available commercially through trapping or taxidermy suppliers. These suppliers commonly offer a variety of fleshing knives and tools every bit well. Although a elementary pocketknife may work for some fleshing jobs, it may exist much easier to utilize a knife or tool specifically designed for fleshing. If using a fleshing axle, you should use a fleshing knife that is rounded to approximately the same degree as the beam. By any method, fleshing should remove all possible flesh from the hide before stretching.
Coyote, play tricks, and bobcat pelts commonly require very little fleshing and can be fleshed quite hands on a stretcher. Remove excess tissue and fatty by cutting, scraping, or pulling it away, being careful to avoid damage to the pare. Beaver pelts are typically fleshed on fleshing beams, and secured to the beam by clamping the edges of the pelt together under the beam. A ii-handed fleshing knife is typically used for beaver because they have a heavy layer of fat and are by and large hard to flesh. Push button the fleshing knife away from your body, working from the caput of the beaver downward. Scrape as much fat and other mankind as possible abroad from the hide.
Cornmeal or sawdust rubbed into the mankind side of the pelt and brushed off helps remove oil and fat. This helps prevent grease burn and aids in uniform drying. Flesh and other tissue left on the skin can retain wet and harbor bacteria, leading to spoiling of the pelt later on.
If pelts are to be tanned at home, the fleshing should be specially thorough. Commercial tanneries will flesh pelts for you, just pelts must withal be cured and fleshed well enough to forbid spoiling before reaching the tannery. Some tanneries may offer discounts if the pelt has been fully fleshed, but check with the tannery first.
Later on skinning and fleshing, the hide is gear up to exist cured. Curing can be done by stretching (air drying) or common salt curing. The stretching method described beneath is for pelts that are to be sold commercially. Table salt curing should be done if the pelt is to be tanned. Forth with procedures for home tanning, salt curing is described in Cooperative Extension Service Guide L-101, How to Set Pelts. (pubs.nmsu.edu/_l/50-101.pdf)
Stretching
For beaver, stretching may be done on a specialized frame, a large board such as a half sheet of plywood, or on an inside wall if in a cool, dry area. The round appearance of prepared beaver pelts is accomplished past stretching, not skinning. To stretch a beaver pelt on a board or wall, bulldoze 4 nails through the border of the head or upper part of the pelt most one-inch autonomously. Stretch the pelt lengthwise as tight as possible and drive several tacks along the bottom edge. Stretch one side of the pelt out horizontally and tack it downwardly, then stretch the other side tight and tack it down. Stretch and tack the remaining border of the hibernate so that information technology is as shut as possible to the shape of a perfect circle, maintaining tautness throughout without overstretching.
As a general rule, cased pelts should be stretched to approximately the same length and width proportions as those of the live animal. Pelts stretched this way are rather long and narrow, the shape preferred in the fur trade. Pelts should be stretched to approximately the same width at the shoulders and hips. Therefore, stretcher shape and size are important.
The pelt is now ready for partial drying. Pelts that are to be sold pare side out can exist left in this position to dry thoroughly. Because coyote, flim-flam and bobcat pelts are sold with the fur side out, they must exist turned before condign too dry out and brittle. Get out the pelt stretched, peel side out, until the flesh has a glazed appearance and is no longer sticky, just still somewhat soft and flexible (time required varies with temperature and humidity but generally takes about 4 to 6 hours at room temperature). Then reverse the pelt then the fur side is out.
If pelts are not at to the lowest degree partially dried with the flesh side out, they tend to stick to the stretcher and are often badly torn during removal. This is a much greater problem if the stretcher is made from a single solid lath, which is non adjustable. In improver, pelts can spoil due to inadequate air apportionment and deadening drying during warm and wet weather if they are non partially dried with the flesh side out commencement.
The hide should be tacked at ane-inch intervals all the manner around. It may assist to describe a circle on the board a little larger than the pelt to serve equally a guide for stretching. Some of the remaining grease may be removed by scraping afterward the stretching has been completed. Beaver pelts should remain stretched until fully dry, usually taking about one week.
Cased pelts can exist stretched using wire or wooden stretchers. An assortment of muskrat stretchers are shown in Figure 4 as an example of the different types of stretchers available commercially. Stretchers for other species differ in size and shape. Wire stretchers have the advantage of being easy to employ because the hide is hands fastened and there is little danger of overstretching. Information technology is wise to rub the stretcher with wax before using to prevent the flesh of the pelt from sticking. This is peculiarly important with thin-skinned animals, such as fox. Wooden stretchers tin be purchased or made at habitation. Figure 5 provides an example layout for a homemade, adjustable wooden stretcher. The smaller stretcher is sized for fox and bobcat pelts while the larger is for coyotes.
Figure 4. Muskrat stretching frames.
Effigy 5. Adaptable wooden stretches. Use finished (smooth) boards.
Coyote, fox, and bobcat pelts should initially exist stretched skin side out. When using adjustable wooden stretchers (Figure 5 and similarly designed stretchers), stretching is done in ordered steps: (i) A small-scale nail on the terminate of the stretcher holds the olfactory organ in place. (ii) Pull the hind legs down moderately and tack them to the stretcher legs. (3) Pull the lower lip toward the nose and tack it in place. (4) Loosen the fly nut on the batten and slide the stretcher legs apart enough to remove wrinkles in the pelt. (5) Tighten the wing nut to agree the stretcher legs in place, only practise not overstretch the pelt since this tends to thin the fur and decrease pelt value.
To turn pelts, remove them from the stretcher, and begin turning them at the open up cease, working toward the head. If a pelt is non likewise dry out and fragile, it is possible to reach through the open up end, grasp the nose, and turn the fur side out similar turning a sock. The front end legs should also be turned and will and then dry out more than thoroughly if cardboard or paper is rolled and placed into them.
Later on the pelt is turned, the hind legs and lower lip should again be stretched moderately and tacked in place and the stretcher legs moved out to remove all slack in the pelt. Inserting a one-inch thick piece of wood into the pelt between the stretcher legs volition amend airflow. If using a solid wooden stretcher, you lot should insert a long, thin wooden wedge between the stretcher and the front side of the hibernate (after dry, removing the wedge first will provide some slack for easier removal of the pelt). The tips of the ears can be pulled forrard and tacked downwards to provide a more than uniform appearance. This also makes dry out pelts easier to pack in bales. Pelts should exist allowed to dry thoroughly before being removed from the stretcher. This may accept several days if the weather is cool and damp. Some people prefer to hang pelts nose side down to dry. This causes the hairs to dry in a more upright position and will make the fur expect thicker.
Storing and Shipping Pelts
When dry, pelts can be removed from the stretcher, brushed again to better appearance, and hung by the nose in a cool, dry place. They should be stored where they will not be exposed to sunlight or directly oestrus. Also, stale pelts should non be folded because they are breakable and will break or tear easily.
Many pelts are sold locally, only it may be necessary or desirable to ship them to buyers, auctions, or tanneries in other locations. Shipping permits are non required in New Mexico, but retrieve to accept bobcat pelts properly tagged (every bit required by NMDGF) before shipping. Additionally, you should check shipping regulations for the state to which yous are shipping pelts. Check with a U.S. Community official before shipping internationally considering special regulations apply.
When shipping pelts, do not wrap them heavily with newspaper since they may heat and spoil. They should be rolled loosely or stacked fur to fur and pare to skin. Pelts can exist shipped in a cardboard carton containing holes for ventilation or in a burlap bag. It is best to check first with the buyer, auction, or tannery for their preferred method of aircraft. If held for long periods, pelts may spoil or be damaged by mice, rats, and insects. As a general rule, it is best to sell pelts during the same flavor in which they are taken.
Marketing Pelts
In New Mexico, most pelts sold by trappers or hunters take traditionally been bought by either a resident or traveling fur buyer. Finding a reputable, established fur buyer will help you to secure a fair price for pelts. You may want to cheque with local trappers, taxidermists, game wardens, or sporting appurtenances stores since they will usually know if there are fur buyers in your surface area. Because fur dealers are required to be licensed when operating in New Mexico, the NMDGF tin can provide a list of currently licensed New Mexico fur dealers. To request a copy of this list, call the NMDGF, Special Permits Section, at 505-476-8064.
Local fur buyers may be hard to discover or not bachelor in your area, but there are other means to sell pelts. Some fur buying companies will advertise in trapping or sportsmen-oriented magazines and will buy pelts through the mail. For those willing to pay a pocket-sized commission fee, pelts may besides exist sold at auctions sponsored by trapping associations or private fur companies. These auctions are sometimes advertised in trapping magazines or through trappers associations. Although there are several ways to sell pelts, utilizing a reputable local fur buyer offers the advantage of establishing a straight relationship with the buyer. A local heir-apparent tin can offer tips and continue you lot up to appointment on preferred methods of pelt preparation.
Prices paid for pelts vary by method of sale, region, market conditions, and form of pelt. Prices vary past region within New Mexico, primarily because of differences in the natural pelt quality. Too natural variability, the quality and value of pelts are dependent largely upon their preparation. Beginners will probable make mistakes, simply with experience, it will become easier to produce pelts capable of securing top market place prices.
A Few Words on Fur Harvest
Since prehistoric times, humans take harvested furbearers for food and wear (subsistence) or population command (direction). The search for fur was the basis for much of the exploration of the American West. Relatively few people depend upon wild fur as their sole means of back up today, but many rely upon sustainable harvest of furbearers to supplement their income. Others simply want to enjoy, use, or display a tanned pelt of a furbearer they have harvested themselves. Additionally, those with a need to implement animal damage control programs (such as harvesting beavers that are disrupting private waterways) may offset some of the program costs by correctly preparing and marketing the pelts of harvested furbearers. Well-regulated hunting and trapping provide pleasurable and profitable ways of using a renewable natural resource.
Furbearer management includes elements of sustainable use, population control, and habitat. So long every bit sufficient habitat exists, harvest of many furbearer species can be used past managers to maintain populations at sustainable and productive levels. Wildlife managers are broadly trained biologists with a background in the basic sciences, botany, soils, environmental, and economics. Their decisions must be based on the best bachelor data. If the resources is to be maintained for the use and enjoyment of time to come generations, management decisions cannot be based on whim, political expediency, or emotionalism.
One emotion-inspired statement confronting the harvest of furbearers has been its alleged cruelty. Much of that "cruelty" stems from erroneous portrayals of trappers and hunters as callous, claret-thirsty, and greedy. However, this negative prototype is perpetuated by a very pocket-size number of trappers or hunters who are inconsiderate toward regulations and ideals of harvest. Trappers and hunters should strive to harvest furbearers in a humane fashion while being considerate toward the environment, wildlife habitat, nontarget wild fauna, man safety, private property rights, other trappers and hunters, and other uses of our natural resources. The Hunter's Guide, published past the National Burglarize Association, and the Trapping Handbook, published by the National Trappers Association, describe standards of conduct that hunters and trappers should follow. Practicing and promoting ethical harvest within the framework of country regulations tin aid advance wild animals management strategies and convalesce some of the misconceptions about fur harvest.
References
Boren, J. and B. J. Hurd. 2004. Tanning deer hides and modest fur skins [Guide L-103]. Las Cruces: New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service, Las Cruces, New United mexican states. Guide Fifty-103.
Krause, T. 1984. Trapping handbook: A guide for better trapping. N. Greyness, 50. Hassler, Grand. Willis, and D. Hoyt (editors). National Trappers Association, Nacogdoches, Texas.
McLean, R.Thousand. 1994. Wildlife diseases and humans. In Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Corking Plains Agronomical Quango. University of Nebraska, Lincoln, Nebraska.
National Rifle Association. 1982. The hunter's guide. The National Rifle Association of America, Washington, D.C.
Acknowledgements
A portion of the fabric in this publication was adopted from the New Mexico Country University Cooperative Extension Service Round C-490, Fur Harvest and Pelt Preparation (no longer in circulation). The authors would similar to thank Jeff Lehmer, the New United mexican states Trappers Association, and Bill Dunn of the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish, for reviewing this publication.
Original author: James E. Knight, Extension Wild fauna Specialist. Previously revised by Jon Boren, Extension Wildlife Specialist, and Brian J. Hurd, Extension Research Specialist.
Sam T. Smallidge is the Extension Wildlife Specialist at New Mexico Country University. He has degrees in wild fauna and range direction. His Extension program focuses on wildlife harm management, wildlife enterprises, and wildlife ecology and management teaching for youth and adults.
To find more resources for your business, domicile, or family, visit the College of Agricultural, Consumer and Ecology Sciences on the Www at pubs.nmsu.edu.
Contents of publications may be freely reproduced for educational purposes. All other rights reserved. For permission to use publications for other purposes, contact pubs@nmsu.edu or the authors listed on the publication.
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.Southward. Department of Agriculture cooperating.
Revised and electronically distributed September 2012, Las Cruces, NM.
Source: https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_l/L101/
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